Winter RVing Tips Anyone Can Use

James & Stef Adinaro James & Stef Adinaro  |  01.20.2016

Stef has written here before about how we like to RV in the winter, and I’ll tell you, she’s right. I love it.

Photo 02 - Bryce in WinterBryce Canyon in snow is amazing – and the only way to see it like this is in the winter.

But any seasoned RVer will tell you there’s more to successful winter RVing than just pointing your rig north. And it’s true, from a “nuts and bolts” perspective, winter RVing presents some challenges.

I’m a bit of an over-achiever when it comes to wintertime RVing. I’ve modified our Winnebago Travato so that we’re fully functional at -13 degrees. But you don’t have to go to those kinds of extremes to enjoy RVing in the winter. In fact, with just a few simple tips, you can have fun in ANY RV in the winter.

Photo 03 - Lance in ZionZion National Park – One of a thousand RV destinations that’s better in the winter without the crowds.

It’s all about the water.

The big problem with winter RVing is water. It freezes. And frozen water in your RV plumbing is no better than frozen pipes in your “regular” home. The good news here is that all Winnebago come with instructions on how to “winterize” the water system. The procedures vary from coach to coach, but basically, winterizing is removing the water from your RVs plumbing and replacing it with either air (from a compressor), or RV antifreeze that you pump through.

If there’s no water in the lines, it can’t freeze. And once you’ve winterized it, you can use ANY COACH well below freezing. You just won’t be using the water system. In practice, this isn’t as big of a deal as it sounds. For drinking water and brushing your teeth, just bring along bottled water.

Similarly, you can bring along bottled water for hand and dishwashing. Another alternative to dishwashing is to use paper plates and disposable cutlery. But that’s not the most environmentally friendly solution, which brings us to the next point.

It’s still about the water – even after you’ve used it.

There are two water systems in your RV: The fresh water system, which we’ve just discussed; and the waste water system, which can also freeze. So you need to pay attention to everyone’s favorites, the grey and black tanks, to keep your winter RVing running smoothly.

Some Winnebago models have tank heaters. These are typically pads placed on the underside of the waste tanks, which heat the contents just enough to keep them liquid. If you have tank heaters, use them. That’s easy enough if you’ve got hookups. But if you’re boondocking, you’ll need to know how much energy they use and manage that to avoid draining your battery bank. One strategy I use here is to only use the tank heaters while driving or when we’re going to dump that day.

Photo 04 - RV AntifreezeRV Antifreeze is your friend!

The other way to keep your waste water system flowing is to use RV antifreeze liberally. Flush the toilet with RV antifreeze instead of water. (You knew we had to discuss the toilet eventually…) Also, pour RV antifreeze down the drains when you’re done washing up. This will do two things: it will get the antifreeze into the traps under your sinks, which will keep them from freezing; and it will also dilute the water in your grey tank with antifreeze, lowering its freezing point. The amount of RV antifreeze you’ll want in your tanks will vary by tank size and outdoor temperature, so there’s no one right number here. Fortunately, RV antifreeze is cheaper than many brands of bottled water. Oh – and while you’re pouring RV antifreeze down drains – don’t forget the shower!

Insulate to stay warm.

Your rig should be equipped with a heater that is adequately sized to keep you comfortable when the temperatures drop. But there’s no sense in wasting energy or testing your heater harder than you need to. Just like in a house, insulation can do a lot to keep the heat in your motorhome, and the cold out.

Now obviously, adding more insulation to a motorhome is a difficult proposition once it’s built. But there are a couple key areas you can pay attention to that will reap you some big benefits. And the most important of these are the windows.

I’ve taken infrared pictures of our rig in the cold, and from the pictures, it’s obvious that most of the heat loss is coming from our windows.

Photo 05 - Infrared window heat lossOrange = heat leaking out of our RV!

The same is going to hold true for most RVs. Single-pane glass is your enemy here, and this includes the automotive glass in the cab area. By far, the easiest way to save on your RV heating is to insulate your RV’s windows.

Many RVers use a product that’s basically tin foil covered bubble wrap, but I don’t recommend it. The tiny air space in the bubble wrap doesn’t count for much, and the tin foil is meant to reflect radiant heat. So unless you’re heating your RV with a radiant heater, that product misses the mark.

A more effective solution would be to use some rigid board insulation from a home center and make custom-fit window covers. There are several types of rigid board insulation readily available. I would try to avoid the polystyrenes (XPS and EPS – there’s some concern about the fire retardant used in them), and instead look for polyisocyanurate (polyiso, for short). Polyiso has a very high R value per inch, and it cuts easily. Custom-fit foam window covers may not look great, and they require some storage space when underway, but remember: you’re only using them in the winter.

Another quick insulation win is to insulate your RV’s vent openings. We all have them. They’re right on the ceiling where all your warm air migrates, and they typically just have a thin plastic cover on them. Insulating these openings can bring dividends in staying warm. Since the vents are a standard size, there are several commercial products available for you to choose from.

Your rig has a heater – use it.

As mentioned before, your RV should have a furnace capable of keeping the living space comfortable when the mercury drops. You just need to be ready to use it. This means a few things:

  • Inspect your RV’s furnace regularly to make sure it is safe for use (if you don’t know how, have it done at a reputable service facility).
  • Make sure you’ve got adequate fuel and battery power to run it. Battery power will likely be the limiting factor in how long you can stay out in the winter without hookups.
  • Keep vents clear, and make sure your carbon monoxide, smoke, and propane detectors are working properly.

We use our RV’s furnace exclusively for winter camping. I have never found the need to supplement it with anything else. One thing you’ll hear a large number of RVers recommend is to use “catalytic heaters”. I don’t recommend using any sort of fuel-burning heating appliance inside the confines of your Winnebago. While proponents of these heaters will tell you that they are safe, there are two indisputable facts about them that remove them from consideration in my book:

  • They do produce some carbon monoxide.
  • They use up the oxygen in the space they operate in.

If you feel you need some supplemental heat, I would recommend an electric ceramic heater. Obviously, these are only going to be useful when you have hookups or can run a generator, but they’re a much safer option in my opinion.

Photo 06 - Condensing FurnaceOur Winnebago Travato has a condensing furnace – so when it gets really cold, we get icicles!

Keep tabs on your energy usage.

Here, I’m talking about getting a handle on how much and what types of energy you’re going to use. Seasoned RVers usually have this down, but even they would do well to rethink their energy usage in cold weather. Here are some things to think about:

  • In the winter months, the availability of solar energy is reduced. The sun is lower in the sky, and the days are shorter. Plan on recovering less energy with an RV solar power system in the winter.
  • Whether your rig’s furnace runs on propane or diesel, you’re obviously going to use more fuel the colder it is outside. Plan ahead and know how much you might use to make sure you don’t get a rude (and cold) awakening in your RV.
  • Electrical energy from hookups is pretty constant, but battery power is a variable in the cold. For starters, batteries have less capacity in colder weather. They charge more slowly in the cold as well. And in the worst of all possible cases – an uncharged lead-acid battery can actually freeze!


Photo 07 - Yours TrulyYours truly – off to our next winter RV destination.

So there you have it. A few simple tips, and all the crowd-free pleasures of winter-time RVing are yours for the taking, regardless of what rig you have. Who knows, we may even see you out on the open (and cold) road this winter!


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  1. Tim Ard Posted on 09.14.2018

    I have a 2018 Era 179a I purchased recently. I plan to use it this winter traveling. Will the Truma system keep water lines, water and waste tanks from freezing if I keep it on or do I have to drain and winterize the lines and tanks?

  2. shelley Posted on 02.23.2018

    Have my winnebago era 70X in the driveway. I am in AZ. 29 degrees
    tonight. I JUST found out. It is already dark outside. I have not winterized before. Is it possible I could just plug it in and keep heat going tonight??

    Nowhere to drain grey/black tanks tonight. Should i run all water from water tanks into grey tanks? Any other ideas??? Panicked.

    Thanks so much!

  3. Gil and Kathy, Brighton, ON Posted on 01.06.2018

    I am most interested in everyone’s experiences with moisture inside the cab windows during cold weather. I try to seal off the cab as well as I can, using a winter sleeping bag – which keeps the cold out, but doesn’t stop all of the humid air from leaking into the cold cab. There’s always a bit of condensation – sometimes outright frost on the inside of the cab windows. I turn on the truck engine and mop up first thing in the morning, but am concerned about eventual corrosion and damage behind the dash and inside the doors. Has anyone seen any kind of airtight, thermal curtain wall sold anywhere… or will we have to design one?

  4. Gil and Kathy, Brighton, ON Posted on 01.06.2018 is a very useful waste dump locater, as well as which also details free parking, vehicle propane and other information.

  5. Gil and Kathy, Brighton, ON Posted on 01.06.2018

    The two of us were out this week with two kids in our 2015 Minnie Winnie 31K with overnight temp at -17F and the 30KBtu/hr propane furnace worked fine, cycling on and off maintaining a nice 72F inside. No problem with the fridge either. We bring a big water container for sponge bathing and dish washing, and some bottled water for cooking and drinking. Water gets heated in a pot on the propane cook top. Black water tank started with 4 gallons of plumbing antifreeze, which we will add to as the tank fills over time. We found last winter that if we have sufficient antifreeze in the tank and turn on the tank heaters when it’s time to drive to the sani-dump, we can drain okay. Dish and wash water go over the snowbank, to minimize the waste tank usage.

  6. Stephane Posted on 12.05.2016

    Any ideas to protect underbelly of the rv against salty roads?

  7. Brian Posted on 12.03.2016

    You said you are able to use your RV and -13 and you went to extremes please elaborate on the extremes you went to because this is what I would like to do when I get one I want to be able to use my bathroom in my shower and if you have figured out how to do this let me know thank you

  8. Tom Buckley Posted on 12.03.2016

    Toilet use in freezing temps: are you using the toilet for…how shall I say…. #1 and #2?

  9. Walt Posted on 02.14.2016

    Finding dump stations is a challenge in winter. Does anyone know of a comprehensive list?

  10. David Posted on 02.14.2016

    Living in Alaska with our RV for the last 15 years, we extend our “RV season” by taking it out in the winter. Some tips/lessons learned from our experiences…
    – Extra insulation on windows works not only to save heat but to prevent uncomfortable cold drafts.
    – We don’t use the water or waste systems – we use a porta-potty (place it in the shower), any other “waste water” goes into a dish pan to be dumped outside.
    – Cold really does a number on your battery capacity, and the furnace takes a lot of power to run the fan, so we end up running the generator quite a bit, and we doubled the number of batteries in our last rig.
    – Water vapor (whether from furnace, cooking, or breathing) really builds up in your RV in the winter, so you have to occasionally open a window and turn on exhaust fan to get rid of the extra vapor.
    – We added a catalytic heater in our last rig, but I agree – I was never real comfortable with it (and it added a lot of water vapor to the interior)
    – Take it easy when driving on snow and ice – lots of extra distance needed for braking. We also have “cable chains” that we can use in the event we need to get to a safer place until the road conditions improve.
    – Most importantly, using your RV in winter makes you feel even better about the big investment you made – great to get use out of it more of the year!

    1. James and Stef Adinaro Posted on 02.22.2016

      David – we completely agree about the “investment” aspect. It feels GREAT to be out there in the winter when most folks have their RVs under wraps!
      It’s very dry in Utah, but moisture management is something to think about – you don’t want condensation dripping down your walls!

  11. Bill Posted on 02.13.2016

    Is there a point at which the propane furnace quits operating? Ours seems to “freeze” (actually all propane appliances quit) at about 17 degrees. As the unit warms up, out our appliances once again fire up.

    1. James and Stef Adinaro Posted on 02.22.2016

      While it’s true that propane loses vapor pressure as the temperature decreases (all the way down to -44 degrees Fahrenheit, where it won’t vaporize any more) there should still be enough pressure at 17 degrees to run your appliances. We were using propane just fine at -13.

      I’d suggest you have your propane regulator checked. It sounds like it may be faulty.

  12. BOB BECKLEY Posted on 02.13.2016

    We are currently using our C series Itasca 32 ft motorhome on Vancouver Island Canada and it is around 3 degrees Celcius and we are using our furnace regularly but it is causing a lot of moisture to build up at the roof level inside. Other than purchasing a dehumidifier which we have done is there any other thing that you can suggest that we do

    Thank You

    1. James and Stef Adinaro Posted on 02.22.2016

      Well, there is some moisture in the propane itself, but that shouldn’t be finding its way inside your motorhome. If it is, then you need to get it serviced ASAP!
      More likely, the moisture you’re seeing is just the natural byproduct of using your RV in the winter. Breathing, cooking, showering – they all produce moisture. And just like a glass of ice water, you can get condensation when you cool that moisture-laden air. You can help control the moisture by running an exhaust fan when cooking showering and that kind of thing. (Seems counter-intuitive to let the heat out, I know…)

  13. Ron Posted on 02.13.2016

    You might mention that the heat pump is useless in colder weather (below 40)

    1. James and Stef Adinaro Posted on 02.22.2016

      Good point, and correct.
      We don’t have one in our rig though, so I wasn’t thinking of it!

  14. Peter Posted on 02.13.2016

    I recently purchased an 24 foot ERA. What is your experience operating a unit like this on snow covered roads? Any tips or tricks? Great article.

    1. James and Stef Adinaro Posted on 02.22.2016

      When we had our Sprinter, we thought it had pretty good performance in the snow. We did get snow tires for it, and that helped.
      Beyond that, all standard winter-driving tips apply. Allow yourself plenty of time to stop, etc. There’s nothing magic about the Sprinters that exempts them from the laws of physics! (Although, the later Sprinter models have lots of cool safety features from MB.)